Tailwheel Traditional vs. All times are GMT The time now is AM. By viewing and participating in them you agree to build your plane using standardized methods and practices and to fly it safely and in accordance with the laws governing the country you are located in.
User Name. Remember Me? Mark Forums Read. Page 1 of 2. Thread Tools. Send a private message to Brendan Find all posts by Brendan Send a private message to DaveWelch. Find all posts by DaveWelch. Posts: 1, Send a private message to Dave Find all posts by Dave Send a private message to RFSchaller. Find all posts by RFSchaller. Check out Van's Classifieds. I have some tools posted there. Angle Drill Kit: This Avery kit is used to drill in tight spots where you don't have a straight shot with the drill.
It comes with a number of different size and length bits. Reamer: Reamers are used when you need to enlarge a hole ever so slightly to high precision. For example, you could use a 40 reamer to match drill the pre-punched 41 holes that Van's gives ya.
Boelube: From Boeing hence the name , this is a wax-like substance used to lubricate drill bits, threads, etc. I have read that it is very helpful in mating the wings with the fuselage as a lubricant for the main wing spars to the fuselage bulkhead.
I have heard that beeswax works is a good alternative. Drill Stops: It's no surprise to what these are used for - making sure that you don't drill too far and ruin something behind the hole you want to make. Some people opt to use them for every drill operation. In fact, if the drill bit surges at all when it is through the material, you are pushing too hard.
I didn't know this until my RV builders class. Fly Cutter: This is used in a drill press to make holes. I picked this up at Sears. Use this only in a drill press at very low speeds RPM. This is a nasty tool that would mangle you nicely if you winked at it the wrong way! Unibits: I had never used one of these before.
In fact, my only exposure to them was seeing Pauly Jr. Avery gives you one of them - the other three I picked up elsewhere. The Unibit it used to enlarge holes without tearing them up. The Unibits make hole enlargment a non event. I had it well before the project started. I do not use it that much as I opt for the air drill. I also don't want to be constantly wearing out the battery by charging it every night when I have power at my beckoning.
I use the air drill more not only because of that fact, but more importantly, it is very very light. It may not seem like a big deal, but a drill bit digs away a lot better when it does its work on its own and not a lot of force pushing behind it.
It isn't worth much more than that, but it is nice to have an electric drill when you don't want to power up the air compressor for a handful of holes. Now, a lot of people don't use electric drills for building airplanes. I have heard two theories on this. The first is that the electric drill doesn't spin fast enough for the drill bits to makes holes as clean as they could. The other is that if you slice that V power cord on a rough aluminum edge, you could get quite a shock.
Air Drill: This is the Sioux air drill that came with the Avery kit. This drill is light and comfortable. I have no squawks with it. Drill Press: This was a freebe from my grandfathers tools. I would say that this tool is a must for any RV builder. You can see I have a small scotchbrite wheel mounted on it. This is very handy in deburring smaller parts. Edge Roller and Awl: On the left is the Avery edge roller. If you have to make a lap joint two skins on top of each other with a rib below , you might notice that the top skins edge will curl upward once you rivet it.
To keep that from happening, roll it with this before you put it all together to make it sit flush when completed. On the right is a Awl from Sears. I use this mainly to enlarge holes if some primer fills them in a little and the rivet won't fit. Electric Engraver: To mark parts, you can't just scratch part markings in aluminum because it will lead to a eventual crack along the scratch.
The solution is to either use a series of small dents or use an electric engraver to mark your parts before you prime. With most primers, there is a sufficient amount of surface prep that can be anything from acetone to MEK, alumiprep and alodone.
If you had any sort of marking on the part, these prep chemicals tend to wipe it right off. This thing is a sweet tool that works great. It is used to screw in eye bolts without damaging the head. Fan Spacer: Used to evenly mark holes. If you know when the end holes are, you can easily mark the in-between ones with this.
Files: The only file here that I didn't have before is a Avery Vixen file middle, the one with the big teath. If you are working with metal, you are going to need any number of files. Bench Grinder: This is another freebe from my grandfathers collection. On the left if a normal grinding wheel and on the right is the scotchbrite wheel.
The scotchbrite wheel really kicks ass for working with aluminum. Avery tools was a good competitor and after the Avery's stopped there is a gap in aircraft tool suppliers. Our products include most of the special aircraft tool kits that Avery tools used to offer. If you are a mobile tool dealer and are interested in carrying our products on your tool truck let us know.
We are currently supplying several mobile tool dealers with products for servicing the aircraft sheet metal tool market. Mobile tool dealers may purchase most of our products to offer for sale on their mobile tool trucks at an affordable rate.
Those mobile tool dealers that service any airport or aviation maintenance facilities will want to offer our products to the aircraft mechanics that they regularly service with their tool trucks. This machine makes perfect dimples and is very quiet, unlike the mallet type. The DRDT-2 will be a great addition to your shop. Isham Inc.
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