Galil sight tool

While no less secure than its attachment to the gas cylinder on the Valmet M71, it does not provide the rigidity offered by the receiver-mounted rear sight of ComBloc Kalashnikovs. The trade-off is a longer sight radius. Reassembly of the receiver cover on all Kalashnikov-type weapons is simplified if you first place the recoil-spring guide rod slightly below its notch in the receiver onto the rear interior wall of the receiver. Then set the receiver cover in place.

Jack the retracting handle smartly to the rear and the guide rod will pop into its notch and the square-cut hole in the receiver cover.

Standard Kalashnikov disassembly and reassembly procedures apply to the Galil. But, a small, though important, correction to the preventive maintenance instructions given in the IMI operator's manual is required. After cleaning, we are instructed to lubricate the gas cylinder and piston. I say no to that. Keep lubricants of all types away from the piston and the interior of the gas system.

The intense heat generated in this area of a gas-operated weapon will cause lubricants to bake and varnish these parts. The rear sight is a flip-up peep type with and meter apertures adjustable for elevation only.

The front-post sight is adjustable for elevation and windage zero. Elevation adjustments are by means of the UZI front-sight tool. Windage adjustment is achieved by loosening and tightening the two opposing screws which move the entire front-sight assembly in its dovetail on to the gas block. The diameter of the front-sight hood is such that it forms an additional aiming circle just within the rear aperture to further assist sight alignment and speed target acquisition.

Taking another cue from the Valmet, the Galil is equipped with tritium betalight night sights set for meters. To use, at dusk or night, the front betalight is folded up to expose a vertical bar, which is aligned between the two rear luminous dots. When the rear tritium sight is flipped up for use, the rear peep sights must be placed in an offset position midway between the two apertures.

The left side of the receiver is dovetailed for a scope side-mount. Mounting a scope on the receiver body usually results in maximum stability. But the IMI side-mount has exhibited a decided tendency to lose zero after take-down and remounting.

As a consequence, Magnum Research, Inc. The Galil issue sling is admirable. Constructed of heavy, wide, black webbing with sturdy steel hooks at each end that rotate degrees, it is easily the best assault rifle sling I have ever seen. Designers in the past have often neglected this piece of equipment, yet it is important to those in the field. After phosphating Parkerizing , all exterior metal surfaces on the rifle except for the barrel, gas block and front sight are finished with semi-gloss black enamel.

An interesting after-market accessory has already surfaced for the Galil. Produced by J. SOF, Gordon, P. Box , Klamath Falls, OR , the Redi-Mag fast-action speed loader attaches in minutes to the left side of the receiver next to the magazine well.

The Redi. By means of a connecting catch bar, its operation is synchronized with the rifle's magazine-release latch. To manipulate the Redi-Mag, drop the muzzle about 10 to 15 degrees and, with the left thumb, press the catch bar forward while grasping the spare magazine with the left hand. While rocking the loaded magazine out of the Redi-Mag, the empty magazine will fall to the ground. Insert the new magazine and you're back in business. I have fired several thousand rounds through both the ARM and SAR in the off-hand, kneeling, hip-assault and prone positions, and can report no stoppages of any kind.

Of course, I neither threw them in the mud nor rolled over them with a truck, as such tests have already been completed under controlled and repeatable laboratory conditions by IMI. And properly so, as such tawdry, unscientific displays demonstrate nothing but the vaudevillian inclinations of the popular gun press.

The five-inch differential in barrel lengths between the ARM and SAR did provide an excuse to chronograph their respective muzzle velocities. The The stubby The extreme spread and standard deviation were significantly lower for the SAR.

But, the accuracy potential of both rifles was quite high, even with trigger pulls no better than the average Kalashnikov. In addition to high marks for hit probability and target acquisition, the SAR exhibited phenomenal controllability in the full-auto mode. The cyclic rate is rpm. Muzzle rise is barely perceptible with two- and three-round bursts. In fact, firing in the off-hand position, at 30 meters an entire and continuous round burst can be contained within a standard military silhouette target!

Felt recoil was virtually nonexistent with both rifles. But, a heavy price must be paid for all these attributes. All of the above operating characteristics are a function of the weapon's weight.

At almost 9. The M16 and AKM weigh only 7. The Galil is only a quarter-pound shy of the U. So what, you say? Im really eager to hear more about them.

FL, USA. I played with one at Industry Day at the Range and it shot well. Price looks right , but I would take a wait and see attitude and see how things pan out.

ID, USA. The specs are weak. They need much more specific detail. MD, USA. Thus far they have worked very well and appear to be a solid Galil type rifle offering. Hope to do more testing this week and will test with Wolf steel case ammo. Aim Surplus has a very few in stock. I ordered one this morning. NC, USA. Quote History. Originally Posted By wreckless: Aim Surplus has a very few in stock.

They only had seven units to sell. OH, USA. For Rent. More pics:. Banged up surplus is still better than that crap Century was putting on theirs though. Good looking rifle. Bi-pods are going to be even harder to find now. ETA: noticed no scope mount cut, not that you can find those easily either I suppose. Placed order with aimsurplus, it now says out of stock again. Glad to be of service.

I want the wood handguards to start shipping to dealers. The wait is killing me! I took the bird in the hand approach. You can always pick up a wood handle one later when they get released. Originally Posted By wreckless: I took the bird in the hand approach. We have shipped a few of the Galeo Galil Rifle s out to be reviewed and thus far have had positive feedback.

Hopefully we will start to see some feedback from others as these look to be a solid value for KY, USA. Mine came in today as well, same issue original Mags FTF , multiple rounds smashed by bolt. Tapco mag ran fine. Also rear night sight missing. Has regular sport hand guard, which is fine I have extra wood ones. Side folder and grip show normal use. Decent looking rifle. Will disassemble and clean rifle and mags, and test again. Tapco blows. NM, USA. The one I played around with in Indianapolis was nice.

Worth the price tag. If I wasn't trying to get out of debt and stop being poor, I'd buy one. I took some measurement of the port from the old barrel. At it's widest it's 0.

I'll use the gas block as a guide for the proper angle, which is 24 degrees. I'll mark the starting point of my bit to a reference point on the block and set my drill press for a 0. I'm also going to insert a. So now that the big cut is done I'll make the actual port into the bore. I measured the size of the port in the old barrel and it comes out to 0. I'm going to use an extra length 50 size drill bit.

When using these extra length drill bits, especially one this small you want to use light pressure and let the tool do the work. If it breaks off in the hole you're screwed. Making that last cut into the bore was the most heart stopping moment of this whole project.

These holes are drilled blind and you have to feel the tools working to ensure you're getting a proper hole. I recommend using a hand drill for this, a brand new drill bits, and a lot of cutting oil.

Make sure that all the chips and cutting oil from cutting the vent hole get removed from the gas block otherwise they'll end up in the gas system the first time the rifle is fired. To get them out I'll plug the chamber with a spent case and blow compressed air in the muzzle. Now that the gas block and vent hole is done I'll headspace the bolt and barrel. Headspacing the bolt and barrel.

Headspace is critical to safety and proper function and If your not familiar with setting proper headspace it should be done by a gunsmith. Luckily I am a gunsmith and I know how to do it. Setting headspace begins with two gauges. I've got to disassemble the bolt by removing the extractor so the back of the gauge rests on the bolt face. That task complete I'll install the bolt on the carrier put the assembly in the receiver.

The Galil is headspaced off of the back of the bolt locking lugs. Never install the operating spring or let the bolt slam into the gauges, it will ruin them, only use slow hand pressure and never force it, if it doesn't close adjust the headspace. I'm going to first just try to close the bolt into battery on an empty chamber. It's really tight so I already know that the headspace is short.

Now that the bolt will turn into battery I'll put the NO-GO gauge fully in the chamber and push the carrier forward like it's loading a round. The bolt doesn't lock into battery, and that's good. Now I'll remove the NO-GO gauge and insert the GO gauge, run the bolt forward but it still doesn't lock into battery, that's also good.

To adjust the headspace I'm going to use some automotive valve lapping compound on the back of the bolt lugs. I'll work the bolt with the compound in and out of battery checking frequently with a live round and the GO gauge, when the bolt is tight on the go gauge and closes on a live round the headspace is set.

Next I'll take NO-GO gauge and check that the bolt doesn't rotate into battery, it doesn't and the headspace is set. I'm going to reassemble the bolt and set it aside with the carrier.

Cutting the extractor cut. AK designs have an extractor cut on the barrel face. I've measured the old cut and it's 0. I'll use jewelers file and make reference marks for the limits of my extractor cut and use the vertical mill to make the rest of the cutout, then clean up the surface with a flat file if needed.

The extractor cut doesn't need to be deep, just enough the the extractor doesn't hang up on the barrel face. Some Galil builders will tell you that you don't need the extractor cut because the extractor sets back in the bolt and that may be true, but IMI put it there for a reason.

Now that the hard parts are done I'll start putting in the fire control group. It goes in just like every AK pattern rifle, except it doesn't. The Galil has a unique fire control group. It has two selector switches. One on the right side like every other AK pattern rifle and a thumb selector on the left that protrudes out the bottom of the receiver. The Galil selector works like all other AK's the top position is safe, the middle position is automatic, and the bottom position is semi-automatic.

Which means the thumb safety is backwards. The forward most position is safe. The middle position is automatic, and the rear most position is semi-automatic.

It takes some getting use to. The trigger goes in first with the spring and the the hammer with the spring. Then the shepherds hook spring to hold the hammer and trigger pins in place. Now I'll install the selector switch. The thumb selector goes in first by rotating it 45 degrees to fit it through the slot cut in the bottom of the receiver and then rotating it flush with the receiver.